What we fix
Wolf faults we are called out for
One manufacturer's cooking equipment, serviced across Duval County. If it heats food and carries that name, it is on this list.
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Dual fuel ranges
Gas on top, electric underneath, and two very different failure patterns sharing one control board.
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All-gas ranges
One fuel from top to bottom, a gas oven burner hidden under the floor, and a set of faults you will never see on a dual fuel.
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Gas rangetops
The drop-in gas top with no oven under it, where nearly every fault is ignition, sealing or a blocked port.
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Induction cooktops
A power supply, a cooling fan and a sheet of glass, where most call-outs turn out to be heat management.
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Wall ovens
Built into a cabinet with no easy way out, which is why the diagnosis has to be right the first time.
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Convection steam ovens
The appliance with the most behind the panel — reservoir, pump, level sensor, generator, drain and seals — and any one of them can stop the steam.
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Ventilation hoods
The appliance nobody thinks about until the kitchen fills with smoke, and the one most often undersized for the top it sits over.
What it costs
What do these repairs run to in Jacksonville?
The visit itself is a flat $80. That buys the trip and the whole diagnostic sequence, and it comes off the total the moment you approve the work. What the work runs to on equipment of this class is below.
| What gets replaced | Parts and labour |
|---|---|
| Igniter or spark module replacement | $200–$510 |
| Burner valve or orifice service | $210–$690 |
| Oven thermostat or temperature sensor | $190–$530 |
| Convection fan or motor | $250–$680 |
$80 flat diagnostic, credited toward the repair when you go ahead with it. The full terms, or what the warranty covers.
About the appliance itself
- Where is the model and serial number?
- On a range, look behind the kick panel at the bottom, or on the frame inside the left-hand door jamb where the door closes against it. On a wall oven it is usually on the side of the opening once the door is open. Photograph the whole plate rather than copying it out; a single transposed character is the difference between the part that fits and the part that does not.
- My oven is not heating. What is usually wrong?
- Usually the temperature probe rather than the element. A sensor that has drifted high makes the board believe the cavity is hotter than it is, so it stops calling for heat early or never calls for it at all. A dark display over burners that still light is a supply problem instead, and that is checked before anything is quoted.
- Do you carry parts on the van?
- The ones that fail often: igniters, spark modules, oven sensors, door hinges, gaskets and a short list of switches. A control board or a specific burner assembly is ordered against your model and serial, which takes a few days. Because we only work on one manufacturer, the shelf is deep in one direction rather than shallow in twenty.
- Which part is the expensive one to replace?
- The electronics. A control board or touch panel is the dearest line on our table, ahead of anything mechanical on these appliances, and it is also the part most often taken out by a supply event rather than by wear. That is why we test the supply before quoting one, not after it has been fitted.
- Will you tell me if it is not worth fixing?
- Yes, and we would rather say it at the diagnostic than after you have paid for a part. On a twenty-year-old built-in, a board plus a sensor plus labour can land close enough to a replacement that the honest answer is to say so. You paid for the diagnosis; the diagnosis includes that conversation.